Last Updated on May 15, 2021
At a Glance: Best Cages for Ferrets To Buy
We highly recommend looking at the ferret cage for sale comparison table we have below where we highlighted the features of each product. You’ll also find more detailed information about each product later in the article.
|Image||Main Features||Our Score||Price|
|Best Overall||Prevue Hendryx Black Feisty Ferret Cage|
|Best Value||MidWest Homes for Pets 182 Ferret Nation Double Unit|
|Budget Choice||Kaytee Multi-Level Ferret Cage|
|Premium Pick||MidWest Homes for Pets 181 Ferret Nation Single Unit|
Ferrets are great fun, and they’re one of the best pets you can keep – but as any ferret owner will tell you, they can also be one of the busiest! This is one of the reasons why you can’t just give your ferret free reign: Most ferrets are best handled on a leash, and best kept in a cage that gives them more than enough space to run around in without allowing them to get up to any mischief.
Not sure which cage is the best choice for your pet?
Here are our top 10 picks for the BEST FERRET CAGES For Sale
1. MidWest Homes for Pets: Deluxe Ferret Cage & Playpen
MidWest makes several different products in their Homes for Pets series, and this is one of the options that you’re looking at if you’re a ferret pet owner or owner-to-be. It’s one of the larger pet homes, offering four different adjustable levels for your ferret with two doors – and most users have reported that even ferrets who love to escape haven’t managed to get out of this one.
The best feature of the MidWest is the fact that it has an entirely separate bottom shelf removed from the cage that you can use for storing pet essentials. It also happens to be made out of solid materials that ensure they won’t tarnish, bend or be chewed through by overexcited pets.
2. Prevue Hendryx Black Feisty Ferret Cage
Prevue Hendryx makes what the call the Fiesty Ferret Cage – and if you’ve ever had a ferret before, you’ll understand why they call it that. It’s one of the top-rated ferret cages out there according to many online reviewers, and this is because it offers far more space than a lot of other cages out there, both vertically and horizontally.
Several platforms are there for your ferret to jump around on, and the cage can be split up into one or two sections depending on how much size they need. Slideable trays make for an easy clean without having to empty out the cage. It’s light, doesn’t take long to put together and holds up pretty well: As a bonus, it’s impossible for even the most persistent ferrets to chew through.
It’s also on wheels, making for easy transport when you need it.
3. Yaheetech 6 Level Large Ferret Cage
The 6-level cage made by Yaheetech is a lot larger than most cages out there, and offers the benefits of more space for either one or two ferrets to have fun. Most of the space offered is in an upwards direction, which is great for active ferrets, and especially great if you intend to keep more than one.
It’s made with three doors that close up pretty well to prevent little escape artists from opening up the doors. The slideable food-and-cleaning trays are one of the best features of this one, making cleaning easy without having to empty out the entire cage.
Some extras like a water bottle are included with the cage.
4. Living World Deluxe Habitat
The Living World Deluxe Habitat is designed with hamsters, rabbits, guinea pigs and other small pets in mind – but it happens to work just as great for anyone intending to keep ferrets as well. Reviewers have referred to this one as one of the best single-level ferret cages out there, and although it might not give as much vertical space as other multi-level ferret cages, this one makes up for it in terms of floor area.
The doors – and the rest of the cage – have been made in such a way that it’s practically inescapable and very durable.
This is a great option if you’re keeping one ferret instead of two, or if you have an older ferret who has gotten used to taking things slower and won’t be jumping around between levels as much.
5. go2buy Metal 3-Door Ferret Cage Playpen
The go2buy 3-door ferret cage (obviously) offers three doors – and also five levels for your ferrets together with room to either adjust the levels as you need them or to connect more accessories. There’s a slideable tray for easy cleaning up, and basic accessories like the water bottle and food tray are included when you buy the cage.
The different levels are connected with platforms, which is great for especially busy furbabies.
6. Marshall Pet Products Ferret Mansion
The Marshall Pet Products “Ferret Mansion” sounds like a great idea in theory – and some people might figure that the name alone makes it a great buy – but it’s not so great in practice. First, it’s one of the more limiting cages out there and many users have come back to report that the Marshall cage isn’t as durable as it should be – or as advertised.
It can also be limiting in other ways, like less floor space than you’d expect it to have.
The main drawback of the Marshall cage is its wired construction throughout: It’s just the right size for feet to get stuck in, which makes this a no-no by default for many ferret owners. Don’t want a nasty accident? Opt for a better cage.
7. Kaytee Ferret Home Plus
Kaytee makes several different ferret cages, and their Ferret Home Plus is one of the best ones. It’s suited for one or two ferrets and comes with two-door access with high-quality latches that even the most determined ferret won’t be able to get through. The platforms are adjustable, and the curved ramps make ups-and-downs easier for smaller (and older) ferrets.
The whole thing is on wheels, which is a bonus if you want to move the cage from one point to another, and it’s durable without being heavy.
8. Kaytee Multi-Level Ferret Cage
For ferret owners with more space needs than the Ferret Home Plus can cover, there’s their multi-level ferret cage model instead. It’s obviously larger, and made from durable (and safe) materials for more peace of mind for owners – and fun for ferrets. It’s suited to several different ferrets but the levels can also be adjusted to make it more suitable for one of them instead.
It’s made with a deeper (and removable) base that’s pretty useful, and food trays are removable; the inside levels are also adjustable depending on what your needs are.
9. The Ferplast Ferret Cage
The Ferplast ferret cage comes with a few added accessories including a food tray, feeder, water bottle and several funnels which makes it an especially great choice for first-time ferret owners who aren’t sure what to buy along with their cage. It comes with four shelves (adjustable ones at that) and two official levels for your ferrets.
The way it’s separated – one level directly on top of another – might not be the best for young and active ferrets: Owners should be aware that it can present a danger if they were to fall, and extra securing might be needed.
The Ferplast cage opens with two doors, but they’re best reinforced if you have a ferret who loves opening things (even if they haven’t discovered the ability to just yet).
10. Mcage Large 3-Level Cage
The Mcage is great if you need a larger cage and don’t mind the fact that it might take a little bit longer to assemble and put together. It’s not the most sightly of cages, and it ends up being a very “bare bones” cage with no extras. Anything that you might want to add to this one, you’ll have to buy first – great for some, and not so great for others.
Even though it works great for most ferrets, it clearly wasn’t designed with ferrets in mind to begin with. Remember to add something to the flooring so that it’s not exposed wire – they didn’t seem to think too far about this aspect, and it presents possible danger for little ferret feet getting stuck in the base. Not ideal at all!
Yes, some ferrets are smart enough to open up the latches on this one – and you won’t know they can until they already have.
Maintaining a Ferret Cage
You need to maintain the ferret cage about once per month, and you’ll need to clean out the litter box every day. The cages don’t require much maintenance themselves, just make sure that they’re safe and stocked with the ferret’s favorite items, like a bed, hammock, and toys.
Some cages will come with their own hammock. If not, you can set up a hammock yourself easily. One useful tip for maintaining and cleaning the cage while your ferret is still inside the cage is that you can close the compartment which the ferret is in, while you clean the open compartment. Most ferret cages are multi-compartmental for this very reason.
There’s a simple routine that you can follow when cleaning the ferret cage. Firstly, take a cloth and soak it in warm water, and wipe the cage to clean it on the surface and remove all the dust.
Then, take some scented soap and clean out all the corners and bars of the cage. The reason you should use a scented soap is to that it takes care of the smell that will sometimes accumulate in the cage if it hasn’t been cleaned for a long time.
Then after having cleaned it with soap, wipe it down with a dry paper towel, and your ferret cage is as good as new! Note that you may need to scrub in some areas, as ferrets tend to leave a mess sometimes. If you have to clean the full cage without the ferret inside, then let it out for some playtime while you clean its cage!
8 Ferret Cage DIY Ideas
What this article covers:
Filling Your Ferret Cage (Food, Litter, Toys And Bedding)
Once you choose a cage you will need to fill it with bedding, at least one litter box, a supply of food and water, and something to entertain them while you are not available.
Ferrets should be given at least one litter box. You may find that your ferret wants more than one place to go the bathroom.
If this is the case, you will need to add more litter boxes! The litter box should have sides that are high enough to prevent accidents but low enough on at least one side for your fuzzy to get in, even when they are in a hurry.
Your ferret will also need at least one food bowl and access to fresh water Food bowls are prime targets for being tipped over by our mischievous little friends. One solution to this is either a heavy ceramic crock or a bowl that attaches to the side of the cage. Either of these options are fine as long as the fuzzy can reach it easily enough to eat.
Water may be offered either in a bowl (again a heavy ceramic crock or bowl that attaches to the cage is preferable) or in a water bottle. Much of this decision comes down to personal preference and whether or not you fuzzy will drink from a bowl or water bottle. A couple of things to keep in mind are that a water bowl is a great place for some ferrets to play and snorkel (leaving the cage flooded when you return) and water bottles can be noisy in the middle of the night if your ferret is close by!
Ferrets also LOVE to play even when you are not there to play with. Providing your ferret something to play with and enough space to play in while you are gone will give you a less stressed ferret in the long run. Please remember that you will not be supervising this playtime and that any toy you leave in your ferret’s cage MUST be ferret proof (see Toys/Playtime).
The most important thing to remember when deciding what food and treats to provide to your ferret is that ferrets are obligate carnivores. This means that they require animal protein and cannot process vegetable protein or gain nutrients from vegetables. This is because ferrets lack a caecum, the section of intestine that helps omnivores like us process vegetables.
Also, from the time food enters the ferret’s body until the time it exits is a matter of only a few hours. Because of this, ferrets need high quality food with high levels of fats and protein as the body has less time to absorb these important nutrients. In Ferrets for Dummies (2000), Kim Schilling recommends that the food you feed your ferret contain at least 34% protein and 20% fat. We also recommend that when you read the ingredients on the label that the first ingredient should be an animal-based product and that at least 3-4 of the first 6 ingredients be sources of animal-based protein.
For a look at some of the recommended foods for ferrets and comparison to other foods, take a look at our FERRET FOODS Reviews on our website.
2.RAW/COOKED MEAT DIETS
While we don’t address the issue here, there is a growing school of thought surrounding the issue of feeding raw and cooked meat diets to your ferret. There are pros and cons to this that are debated even within our board of directors. If you are considering this route, we suggest you discuss it with your vet to ensure that your ferret is getting the correct nutrition.
There are many misconceptions about what kinds of litter should be used with ferrets. The biggest thing to consider when deciding on a litter is the health of your ferret(s). Any litter that has clay in it (e.g. traditional cat litter) is not recommended for ferrets because it can harm your ferret.
First, clay litter is sticky! This can cause the clay to stick to your ferret’s feet, coat or behind as it scoots after doing it’s business. The litter can then be ingested as the ferret cleans him or herself or may work it’s way into the anal opening and cause a block or prolapsed rectum. It can also get into the ferrets eyes, nose and ears if you ferret decides to go snorkeling in it. When you mix clay with any liquid including urine, saliva, tears, etc -cement is formed. These chunks of cemented clay can cause a wide variety of health problems for your ferret including an intestinal blockage.
Second, clay litter produces dust. Ferrets have very sensitive respiratory systems and this dust can cause damage to the throat and lungs over a period of years. Other types of litter that are dusty are scoopable kitty litters and some wood shavings.
There are also other types of litter that can cause respiratory damage over time, not because they are dusty, but because they contain ‘essential oils’. Cedar, pine and other wood shavings have not been processed in a way to remove the oil that occurs naturally in all wood. These oils release vapors, which then can cause the respiratory damage mentioned above.
There are many forms of litter on the market that are acceptable including corncob litter, newspaper, recycled paper litter (in various forms), and wood pellets. One word to the wise, corncob litter and plain newspaper are not very absorbent and therefore will not absorb odor well either. Really, the goal of any litter should be absorbency, which recycled paper litters and wood pellets seem to do fairly well and in a manner that is safe for your fuzzbutt! Although the most cost effective litter is wood pellets, hands down.
Something you will notice about your ferret almost immediately is that they like to burrow under things. This is true during play and during sleep. Be sure to give your ferret plenty of things to tunnel in and sleep under as they will spend the majority of their time snuggled up and asleep while you are not with them.
Ferrets can actually experience ‘cage stress’ if they do not have a place to hide and call their own. There are quite a number of commercially available items that are made just for ferrets, but really your ferret will be just as happy with an old t-shirt. Some favorite types of bedding include hammocks, snuggle sacks, or cuddle cups, which can be made at home or purchased in a store.
The bottom of the cage can remain uncovered, however if it is made of wire mesh it may be easier on the ferret’s feet if it is covered. Some materials that can be used to cover the bottom of any ferret cage are old carpet remnants, a fitted piece of linoleum or Plexiglas, a thick piece of fleece or any other creative covering. You can give your fuzzy just about any kind of material to sleep in/on, however many ferrets will actually eat certain types of material or plastics which could cause blockages. This means that no matter what you put in your ferret’s cage, you should inspect it regularly to make sure he or she doesn’t think it is a snack!
5.TOYS (Read The Best Ferret Toys Reviews Here)
Ferrets love to play! Many people think of them as two year old that never grow up. A bored ferret is often a destructive ferret so it’s in your best interest and your ferret’s to always have toys available. Some toys that ferrets like are tunnels, boxes with shredded paper, balls, squeaky toys and dirty socks/clothes. Their favorite toy will always be you so don’t forget to interact with your ferret as much as possible.
They all seem to like to play with things that aren’t toys and aren’t safe for them. Be careful with stuffed animals, rubber toys and anything that they can pull apart and ingest. You don’t want to endanger your ferret by letting him play with something that can cause a blockage. Be especially careful to inspect the toys that you keep in their cage. Check them daily for tears or rips. If the toy is damaged, remove it and throw it away. Some other things to keep your ferrets away from are remote controls, drains, vents, cabinets, cleaning products, washing machines, dryers, dishwashers, toilets, reclining chairs and sofa beds.
Ferrets also LOVE to play even when you are not there to play with. Providing your ferret something to play with in his cage and enough space to play in while you are gone will give you a less stressed ferret in the long run. Please remember that you will not be supervising this playtime and that any toy you leave in your ferret’s cage MUST be ferret proof.
Ferret Cage FAQ
A: It might seem unnecessary for some people to have a cage for their ferret. Dogs or cats don’t have to be kept in a cage, so why should ferrets? Here’s why ferrets are different.
Ferrets sleep for most of the day, so they’ll be spending most of their life on their bed. Why a cage can help is because it gives the ferret a protected, closed-off environment to do what it does the most: sleeping.
For the few hours that they are awake, they’re hyperactive and will want to use up the energy that they saved sleeping. Often you might not have time for or be awake for this, and it can be problematic. When ferrets are this hyperactive and don’t have a playmate, they may prance around and trash the house or hurt your children (no joke).
In those cases, it’s better to keep the ferret in their habitat and make sure it’s spacious enough for them to play in with their toys.
It’s best to purchase a large ferret cage so that it functions as an all-in-one habitat. It’s spacious, gives your ferret plenty of room to rest, play around, and go to the bathroom. Thankfully, there are many ferret cages for sale that are big enough for this purpose. Some are even taller than the average person.
A: If you have more than one ferret as a pet (there are families which have as many as ten ferrets), one obvious point you will confront is whether you should have one big cage or separate cages for all ferrets. Though there is a division of opinion on the issue, the voices promoting separate cages for your ferrets seem to have an upper hand.
The basic point against one big cage is that since ferrets have personalities of their own, they may end up squabbling a great deal among themselves. If you want to keep more than one ferret in a single cage, the advice is: first check out whether the bonding between the ferrets is perfect. Then only you can opt for having a single cage for two or more ferrets (the size of the cage will obviously be much bigger than the standard size). If you are against the idea of their breeding, then either keep just females, or make sure that all your pets are neutered.
Now, moving on to the issue of separate cages for ferrets, you can opt for ferret nation cage with multiple floors. Here, you are strongly advised against use of aquariums or cedar chips. Ventilation is a must for ferrets. Ferrets are inquisitive, fearless, and capable of getting into places that you can hardly think of. Ferrets should not be left in a cage for a prolonged period.
They need affection and human companionship to keep them happy and healthy. High heat and humidity can be fatal for a ferret. You, therefore, have to ensure that their cages are always placed in a climate controlled environment. Never make the mistake of placing your ferret’s cage directly in front of an air-conditioner or a window with direct sunlight. The bottom-line is that where you house your ferrets’ separate cages or a single cage is also very crucial as they are very susceptible to heat stress or stroke. Under no circumstances should they be exposed to temperatures above 79°F.
A: For a ferret that is a part of your household, his cage does not comprise his entire worldview. No doubt, his cage is his real home, the hub of his life, but the movement and actions beyond it are things that he eagerly looks forward to. For them it’s like “time to go out and enjoy.” More importantly, it’s only outside the cage that he shares those special moments with you which bind both the owner and the pet in a special bonding. The heart of the matter is that the ferret needs to be released from the cages each day. Now the issue is, what should be the ideal periodicity?
Going by the pronouncements of several experts on this crucial point, you must be allowing your ferret at least two hours (if not more) of playtime and exercise outside the cage each day. Before opening the lid of his cage, make sure that all hazardous products have been removed from the house. If you are taking your ferret outside, always keep him on a leash made for small animals.
A: 1. Keep away from noisy sounds. 2. Keep away from air vents. 3. On a surface that is easy to sweep. 4. In a warm and caring atmosphere.
A: 1. Lots of space. 2.Proof of escape. 3.The floor is solid. 4.Cleaning is easy. 5.Materials that are safe to use. 6.Proper ventilation
A: 1.Hamsters 2.Guinea Pigs 3.Rabbits 4. Chinchillas 5. Mice and Rats 6. Parrots 7. Hermit Crabs 8. Ferrets 9. Reptiles 10. Fish 11. Sea Monkeys 12.Gerbils
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- Down To Business: Ferrets As Pets | CVMBS News. (2020). Retrieved 8 May 2021, from https://vetmed.tamu.edu/news/pet-talk/down-to-business-ferrets-as-pets/
- Ferret Care. (2019). Retrieved 8 May 2021, from https://healthtopics.vetmed.ucdavis.edu/health-topics/exotics/ferret-care
- Bixler, H., & Ellis, C. (2004). Ferret care and husbandry. Veterinary Clinics Of North America: Exotic Animal Practice, 7(2), 227-255. doi: 10.1016/j.cvex.2004.02.002, from https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC7128698/
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